To add some variety to our usual beach weekend, we wanted to see Cape Flattery, the furthest northwest point of the contiguous United States. This side trip would also give us the chance to explore some back roads and small towns. After leaving Forks, we drove north 10 miles to the 101-113 junction, then 10 miles along Highway 113 until it joined up with Highway 112. Once 112 enters the town of Clallam Bay, it’s also known as the Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway. The road follows the sharp curves of the coastline northwestward along the Strait of Juan de Fuca through the tiny fishing villages of Clallam Bay and Sekiu, and Canada’s Vancouver Island is easily visible in the not-too-far distance. Some day we’d like to try the Coho ferry route from Port Angeles to Victoria as a change from the usual Tsawwassen-Sidney BC Ferry (we took the Victoria Clipper direct from Seattle once: never again!) — but that’s another trip.
Upon entering the Makah reservation and the town of Neah Bay, the way to Cape Flattery is fairly well marked with small brown signs. Be advised: the last 4.5 miles of the road are gravel and there are a few potholes. The Cape Flattery trailhead has a pair of outhouses and space for several vehicles to park. This parking lot was also nearly full, and during our walk we crossed paths with a few other groups.
The trail itself makes a gradual descent to the cape and is about .7 miles long. Thanks to the renovation efforts of the Makah tribe, one can walk to the end of the earth almost entirely on cedar plank boardwalk, with handrails for assistance and several lookout stations featuring interpretive signs and protective guardrails. A Makah interpretive guide was stationed at the Cape Flattery lookout, ready to share binoculars, stories, and information about the area with visitors. About half a mile from the lookout, Tatoosh Island and its lighthouse are easily visible.
As fond as I already am of the northwest coast’s wild beauty, I wasn’t prepared for the views from this short hike. Every viewpoint offers a breathtaking display of nature’s energy and color. Over time, the sandstone cliffs have been carved into intricate sea stacks, caves and channels by the relentless waves. Lush evergreen forest and deep blue water, dotted with tangles of bull kelp, stand out in contrast to the soft grey skies overhead. From the lookout on the cape, we watched a sea otter, a flock of brown pelicans, and one of the rocks near Tatoosh Island was covered with sea lions. Bright orange sea stars clung to the cliff base, and a few jellyfish could be seen swaying in the waves.
We made our homeward journey along Highway 112, which passes through Pysht, Joyce, and not much else until it connects up with the 101. As mentioned, the trees are just starting to change color; this was one of those lovely, golden fall days made for exploring. Another dinner in Sequim, followed by a return trip by ferry, and we were safely home again.
Amidst this idyllic setting, the reader may well wonder how the Things enjoyed the weekend. Thing One always likes throwing rocks into water, and while he got a little queasy trying to play his handheld video game on the curvier sections of road (of which there were many), he liked the trip overall. Thing Two was unmoved by the stunning scenery and wildlife around him, and punctuated our driving time with random, ear-splitting yells. (Sometimes life with Thing Two resembles Harrison Bergeron.) Nevertheless, we are certain the trip was a character-building experience for him, or he wouldn’t have complained so much.
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Tags:
hike,
local fun,
northwest coast
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