Back in the day: the fickle Finger of Fate
by The Gimlet
Editor’s note: The Gimlet’s friend mentioned in the story below recently celebrated an Eagle Court of Honor for his own Thing One (congratulations!), and while searching for pictures for his ceremony, these photos were found. And no, they haven’t been run through some fancy Photoshop filter or iPhone app: these photographs are genuinely old.
Back in the summer of 1984, I was an 18 year-old who had finished one year of college (one quarter at USU and one semester at UNM), and was waiting to go on an LDS mission. My friend and his parents let me stay at his home while I worked at the same Shell gas station I had worked at during high school. I remember taking all my earnings, buying ten white shirts, and having very little money left after that. I also remember my father reading my mission call to me over the phone from our new home in Albuquerque to me while I was at my grandparents’ condo in Thousand Oaks, CA.
I also remember my grandfather being convinced that my cousin and I were going to do something risky and get ourselves killed just before we went on our missions. My cousin planned to go on a white water rafting trip, but that is another story. As for me, my friend and I went to Idaho to have my uncle guide us on a climb of the Finger of Fate, which Mountain Project.com describes as a “ridiculously cool looking granite spire in the Hell Roaring Lake area” of the Sawtooth mountain range. The previous summer, the three of us had successfully summited the Grand Teton.

My memories of the climb are mixture of vague and unbelievably clear. I vaguely remember the drive to the trail head in my father’s 1981 VW Scirocco (which was soon replaced with a 1984 Scirocco after I left on my mission) I do not remember how close this was to my August 9, 1984 report date to the MTC. I remember the trail and the beautiful peak we were going to climb.

Most vivid though is the memory of my uncle not being able to make the last move on the climb to get to the top of the peak. He is not a big man and his arms were not long enough to reach.

Then I remember my attempt.

I got to the peak and put my arm across the top. The cliff on the other side was about 1000 feet. I imagined myself pulling myself over the entire peak and going over the other side. With that thought, I realized I physically could not force myself to make the move. At that point I realized in spite of all my dreaming and working toward becoming a great alpinist, I did not have the drive or recklessness to put my life on the line any farther.

I remember my arm across the rock and the look across the top of the peak, but I could not quite get there. My friend couldn’t make it, either.

We climbed down the mountain without summiting and you can tell from our expressions on this last photo that we were disappointed.

At that time, I might have believed that I was done with mountains, but mountains weren’t done with me. After my mission (nicknamed “The Mountaintop Mission“), I returned to Idaho, and with my uncle, I climbed the Middle and South Tetons. Later I summited law school, but in retrospect I often wonder if I should have kept up with mountains of granite, ice and snow. Now, to steal a thought from Timothy Egan, I live in a city where (on a clear day) I can look around me and see three national parks at one time: Rainier, North Cascades, and Olympic.
Links for fellow armchair mountaineers:
- Overview of the Finger of Fate from Summitpost.org
- Topo map of the Finger and related hikes from Mountain Zone.com
- Idaho: A climbing guide
- All Fourteen 8,000ers by Reinhold Messner on Amazon.com
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