2010 JASNA AGM Report: Muslin

Wednesday, November 3rd, 2010 by HML

Part the Third: In which, mayhem and mystery having been sufficiently discussed, muslin is all that remains.   Fans of Mrs. Allen may say we saved the best for last.

As eager as we are to get to the ball, (you knew this was coming) that is getting ahead of the story just a little.  First, we would be remiss if we failed to show off the stunning display of costume and fashion in the Milsom Street Emporium, all designed and executed by Susan Pasco.   Everything was so beautiful.

It was such a treat to examine gowns, hats, and other accessories up close and marvel at the care and detail that went into making them.

This richly embroidered Georgian gown was my favorite:

Many thanks to Susan for generously sharing her collection with the AGM attendees!

(more…)

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2010 JASNA AGM Report: Mystery

Tuesday, November 2nd, 2010 by HML

Part the Second: In which Team Tilney Explains It All, including the mystery guest mentioned in Part the First.  Mojo, voodoo, mist and magic abound!

Friday morning Team Tilney met in the hotel ballroom, instructed our Extraordinary Gentlemen to bar the doors, and rehearsed in earnest with our mysterious guest panelist:  a local Portland actor we hired to play Henry Tilney.    During a brainstorming session, the idea was tossed around to have a “real” Henry join our panel.  Team member Lynn Marie got in touch with her Portland theater contacts, and in short order we had our Henry on board and familiarizing himself with our presentation.

As he would be sitting in the audience prior to his introduction, Maggie warned him that as a young man in costume at the AGM, he would be an unusual sight and the other attendees would be drawn to him. (“They will come up and pet you.”) But despite this, and despite overhearing at least one very shocking assessment of his charms, what followed after the presentation was a surprise even to Team Tilney.  But that is getting ahead of the story just a little.

(more…)

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2010 JASNA AGM Report: Mayhem

Monday, November 1st, 2010 by HML

Part the First: In which our heroine has a most distressing adventure, but all ends happily, if wearily.

This year the Things had several must-attend activities scheduled at the same time that Your Humble Narrator absolutely had to be in Portland, so Team Gimlet divided and conquered:  I rode the train down to Portland Thursday afternoon, and when the evening’s events were done, The Gimlet loaded up the barouche and drove south, arriving in Portland at 1:30 in the morning.  After the stress and bustle of preparations, the train ride was relaxed and scenic, and had I but known it, Laurel Ann of Austenprose was riding the same train!  We did not discover this until we were introduced in the hotel lobby.  But that is getting ahead of the story just a little.

A Northanger Abbey-inspired journey would not be complete without a Gothic kidnapping of the incompetent heroine, and so it happened that when I found the MAX light rail station, I very stupidly got on the wrong train, which promptly whisked me away from downtown Portland and over the Willamette River.  However, rather than scream or faint (although the inclination was there, as I watched downtown disappear into the distance at an alarming speed), I managed to ask a Local Young Person for directions, and she very kindly helped this Befuddled Older Person to the correct MAX station.

I was then hopeful that the return trip would be uneventful, but I had forgotten about the possibility of banditti, another popular Gothic motif.  After a conversation with a potentially aggressive panhandler, and the concern that I might miss my stop again, I decided that a walk was in order.  Happily my chosen point of disembarkation was not too far from my final destination, and soon I was within the welcoming walls of the hotel and met by old friends and online acquaintances (who feel like old friends even if this was our first face-to-face meeting).

The first of many visits to the Milsom Street Emporium was in order, and not because the rigors of the journey demanded retail therapy.  Rather, the Antique Fashionista and her husband (also known as Aunt M and Uncle C) had secured a booth in the Emporium and I wanted to meet up and find out how the day had been for them.  The Antique Fashionista was hard at work, as she would be for the next three days, stepping away from her booth only when it was absolutely necessary.  The Fashionista Dogsbody had already been sent on several errands to procure nourishment and art supplies (an excellent shop just happened to be close by).  Team Fashionista was fatigued from travel and their labors, but were happy to report that sales were brisk, even at this early pre-AGM stage.

I was a member of a group of ladies called Team Tilney, which would be presenting a panel discussion Friday morning, before the official opening of the AGM.  We had planned to rehearse our presentation Thursday afternoon, but all of us, including our top secret mysterious guest panelist, arrived late for one reason or another.  When we finally assembled, we had less than an hour to work, but the first run-through went well.  After rehearsal we adjourned for a much needed dinner at the Heathman Restaurant.    The food was exquisite (the desserts were especially heavenly) and the conversation delightful.  Even when jet-lagged and travel-worn, Janeites are the best sort of company.  My evening was far from over as I had to wait up for The Gimlet to arrive, and when he finally did, we were both glad to get a few hours’ sleep before the big day.

Next:  Mystery

Visit the Gimlet Gallery to see more photos from the AGM.

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Thursday, October 14th, 2010 by HML

The 2010 AGM is almost here!  JASNA’s annual meeting will be held in Portland, Oregon over Halloween weekend.  The theme is “Jane Austen and the Abbey:  Mystery, Mayhem, and Muslin in Portland”.   I’m looking forward to a reunion with fellow Gothic Gotham fangirl Kelley and my partner in mayhem and muslin from the Vancouver AGM, Maggie.  Aunt M, the Antique Fashionista, will have a booth at the Milsom Street Emporium where people can watch her working on her beautiful watercolors, then purchase one to take home as a souvenir.  Meanwhile, The Gimlet has plans to sample the local donut scene and see if it lives up to the hype.

Of course there has to be a new dress for the Bal Masque, and Tamara has graciously agreed to design another amazing creation.  No pictures to share yet, but think crushed red velvet, black lace, and especially think Gothic.  Wretched Mathildas and Emily St. Auberts, all of whom swoon at the drop of a hat, would surely swoon for such a gown.

It promises to be a weekend of great fun.  We hope to see you there!

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“As elegant as lace and pearls could make her”

Thursday, October 18th, 2007 by HML

A closer view of the ball gown My ball gown was designed and created by Tamara, one of the co-authors of the La Mode Bagatelle Regency Wardrobe pattern package. It’s based on a gown featured in at least two different fashion periodicals from the early 1800s. I can’t post an original fashion plate because I don’t own one yet. (I lost out in an eBay bidding war for one earlier this summer … *grumble*). The original gown design was described as follows:

An empire waist gown with an overlayer studded in pearls and with ropes of pearls holding it shut. Accessories include a white shawl and beaded bracelets worn on the bicep.

The ball gown as seen from the backAfter studying the fashion plates, Tamara made a petticoat, gown, and an overlayer. The lace overlayer is completely detachable from the rest of the gown so the main gown could easily be worn on its own or the overlayer could be worn with a different gown. The sleeves are open to allow the gown’s sleeves to show through. Paired bead strands hold the overlayer together. The skirt is fuller in the back than in the front but no train.

We decided on a few modifications. The original gown was white on white, but we chose pale pink satin for the gown, and pink lace for the overlayer. The lace we chose has a nice scalloped edge very similar to the overlayer border on the original fashion plates. Tamara added several decorative touches like the extra beading at the waistline and the ribbon trim on the sleeves, neckline, and at the waist. Project followers will note that the ribbon looks a little different on the finished product – originally Tamara was going to sew beads on the ribbon but changed her mind and wound a pair of thin cords around the ribbon instead. A few small beads were sewn into the lace as well for additional texture and to catch the light.

Another closer look at the dress and accessoriesA friend made freshwater pearl strands to wear in my hair, and a pair of upper arm bracelets. The bracelets are carved rose quartz rounds alternating with round gold fill beads. Over-the-elbow gloves of white kid leather complete the accessories. I had planned to buy vintage gloves, but soon discovered that most of the older styles are too small for my hands. Luckily I found an eBay shop offering new gloves in modern sizes. Closeted Janeites (and customers with other uses for long leather gloves) will be pleased to know that the seller promises discreet shipping in a plain envelope, much to the Gimlet’s amusement.

The 1809 ideal versus today's toddlerThe final fitting day was very exciting, and Thing Two wanted to dress up, too. Later he tried to share his beads with me. A little carried away by the fashion plate spirit, we attempted a mother and child photo, but Thing Two was uncooperative, to put it mildly. I am increasingly convinced that the serene cherubs in those old prints were stuffed and mounted, or perhaps cardboard cutouts.

The Gimlet Gallery has a few more pictures of the dress as seen at the JASNA AGM. Many thanks to Tamara for her creativity and craftsmanship, and many thanks to Linda for her generous and perfect finishing touches. The gown is gorgeous; I love how it turned out and am eager to find more reasons to wear it … thus far I’ve resisted the temptation to lounge around the house in it. Now, where did I hide those bonbons?

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A weekend in Austenland

Friday, October 12th, 2007 by HML

Visit the Gimlet Gallery to see more of our photos from the AGM.

At last, the much-anticipated day arrived and Team Gimlet was off to the JASNA Annual General Meeting (AGM) in Vancouver. The trip took a little longer than expected, between choosing an out-of-the-way border crossing and navigating Vancouver’s downtown, but finally we found the entrance to the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver. Our delays cost us the opening reception but The Gimlet grabbed some banana bread as the tea things were being cleared away, and I slipped into a seat in the back of the first breakout session. Meanwhile, The Gimlet attended to our room reservation, and we were upgraded to a suite on the Fairmont Gold floor. The upgrade more than made up for the day’s earlier inconveniences.

Breakout sessions were available on a wide variety of topics to satisfy any interest. The Vancouver AGM web site has a complete list of sessions and speakers; here are the five I was able to attend:

Discovering Emma in VancouverTravel in the time of Emma. Of course Emma doesn’t travel, but the speaker talked about women who did travel during Jane Austen’s day, the conditions they encountered, and how Jane Austen may have used those women’s experiences to create various characters’ attitudes about travel. For more information, read the speaker’s book: No Place for a Lady: Tales of Adventurous Women Travellers.

“Charming Furniture”: Book Production in Austen’s Time. The speaker was a professional bookbinder. She explained that publishers produced essentially unbound books (cardboard or paper held the package of pages together) and it was common practice to bind one’s books all the same way, usually to best coordinate with the room. If the library were repainted/refurnished, it was common to send the books out to be rebound in an appropriately coordinating set of bindings as well. She also discussed printing and the types of bindings chosen by buyers with less money.

Mr. Woodhouse and Mr. PerryThe Idlest Haunts in the Kingdom: Discovering the Spas and Resorts in Emma. The speaker, a medical doctor, discussed several spas and resorts around England (mentioned in Emma, visited by Jane Austen, and others) and discussed the reputation, health claims, and effectiveness of each. She also explained the processes of “taking the waters” and sea-bathing. Enthusiastic and graphic details about certain medical procedures left more delicate audience members squirming, but even so this was an entertaining and informative session.

Such a delicate muslinWomen’s Clothing & Men’s Clothing in Jane Austen’s Time. This pair of breakout sessions was led by a former curator of History for the Vancouver Museum who has been collecting historical clothing for over fifty years. (He’s also a Classical Studies major, which endeared him further to my heart.) He brought several gowns and men’s coats to display, as well as two spencers, a tippet, breeches, a pocket, shoes, and I know not what else. (Okay, I forgot what else.) We were allowed to come up to the front to see the costumes up close (but no touching) and take pictures. This very lively presentation covered the ideals which led to the different styles and tales of the speaker’s adventures in costume acquisition, ranging from Christie’s to Value Village. What a wonderful way to end the lecture portion of the AGM.

A few AGM goodiesIn addition to plenary, breakout and panel sessions there were a variety of other activities: tours of Vancouver and the surrounding area could be reserved; the hotel hosted a daily afternoon tea and a Regency Emporium sold books and other Austen-related items. Evening entertainment included an Emma-related play; a card/board game room and discussion groups were open; and there were several opportunities to take English Country Dance lessons.

Dancers at the ballThese lessons were very popular, filling up almost immediately. The instruction moved much too quickly for me to learn everything immediately, but the nice feature of country dancing (especially with the long sets) is repetition; about partway through each dance I finally caught on and was eager to dance another set by the end. The Gimlet loves to dance and has no coordination issues so he was dancing much more quickly. As the evening progressed he may have been wishing to upgrade to a partner possessing both a left and a right foot.

An agreeable ballOn to the ball! While about one-third to one-quarter of AGM attendees wore Regency attire during the entire meeting, about half or more of the Saturday evening attendees dressed the part, or wore some sort of fancy dress to the banquet and ball (we saw some beautiful saris and distinguished kilts). The elaborate neoclassical ballroom looked like a scene from the films. Unfortunately we missed most of the social hour prior to the banquet because it took so long for me to get dressed. (An experienced lady’s-maid would have Ready to keep the peacebeen useful.) When we finally arrived at the social hour, most guests had brought their cameras and were asking people to pose – making it a lot of fun to be dressed up. A Mountie in full dress uniform was also in attendance, very agreeably posing for photos. At the conclusion of the social hour a bagpiper led the guests in a procession around the reception room, then through the halls to the banquet room. After the banquet the piper again led a procession from the banquet room to the ball room.

My once-in-a-lifetime paparazzi moment came when I had gone into the ladies’ room to make some adjustments to my dress. A very nice lady came in and asked if she could take my picture. Fortunately she gave me time to put myself back together before snapping a photo. Now I know how celebrities feel.

A long set to dance upThe sets at the ball were long, stretching the entire length of the room. I was still intimidated by all the dance steps, so Team Gimlet danced one of the easier dances, “When Laura Smiles”. Another lady claimed a waltz with The Gimlet (not period correct, but it was an intermission with recorded music to give the musicians a rest break); then The Gimlet and another partner The Gimlet dances up the setdanced “Mr. Beveridge’s Maggot” (the dance seen in both the 1995 Pride and Prejudice miniseries and the 1996 Emma film.) While English Country dancing doesn’t require an equal number of gentlemen and ladies, gentlemen were in short supply and those present, able, and willing to dance were much appreciated – bringing to mind Mr. Darcy’s initial rude refusal to dance, and Mr. Knightley’s gallant “rescue” of Harriet Smith.

The meeting’s activities kept us well occupied, so we chose to forgo the sightseeing we had planned for this trip. After the closing Sunday brunch, we took a rainy drive around Stanley Park before leaving Vancouver.

Everybody's a criticCritics have sneered at these sorts of meetings, suggesting that the participants are a pitiful lot with difficulty separating fiction from reality. Sure, the meeting was not without a few strident crazies, but they were easily avoided. Here’s reality: we just spent a weekend without the Things (delightful as they are) in a lovely city, in a luxury hotel suite with a private concierge lounge (well-stocked with amenities, including chocolate croissants). While The Gimlet enjoyed some much-needed downtime, I attended several fascinating Team Gimletpresentations on a variety of Austen-related topics, with no exams or term papers to spoil the pleasure of listening and learning. Team Gimlet has never harbored any delusions about resembling Austen’s characters, but how often these days do adults have the opportunity to dress up, much less attend a formal ball? How often do we take time out of our hectic schedules to enjoy life, try new experiences, meet up with old friends, and make new ones? We’re already planning our trip to Chicago next October for the 2008 AGM.

The Gimlet displayed true Mr. Bingley-like enthusiasm and happy manners all weekend:

What’s not to like about this conference? Beautiful ladies in their finery (my date the most beautiful), no responsibilities for the Gimlet, fine food (Tim Horton’s Donuts across the street from the hotel) and dancing. Sounds like heaven. If the Tim Horton’s hot chocolate had been cooler it would have been perfect. Where can I sign up for more?

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Cleans up nice

Friday, September 21st, 2007 by HML

The Gimlet in half-Regency garbThe Gimlet’s JASNA AGM formal wear arrived recently, so he’s all set to go. But for now he’s settled into a comfy chair, waiting for me to get ready. My dress isn’t finished yet, but will be soon (I hope!). Note that The Gimlet is keeping his 21st-century dress slacks and shoes. If we decide to attend future AGMs (or if word gets out that he has the wardrobe for church history skits), we’ll look into completing the outfit.

Want to dress up your own Mr. Knightley or Colonel Brandon? (That Darcy fellow gets plenty of press already.) Jessamyn’s Regency Costume Companion reviews a variety of men’s clothing patterns and provides several helpful images and hints for creating the Regency look. The Regency Collection’s article on neckcloths and its accompanying 1818 illustration, Neckclothitania, is also very useful. And for my fellow non-sewing-types, here are the shops I used:

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Monday, August 27th, 2007 by HML

Click for a better look at the fabric samples.Time for a JASNA ball gown update! First, here’s a set of fabric, ribbon, and beads. The picture doesn’t really do justice to the ribbon. It’s actually mauve-colored, but looks gold when held at just the right angle. The ribbon will trim the neckline, sleeves, and skirt hem. Little beads will be sewn into the ribbon and lace to add some sparkle; the larger beads hold the lace overdress together across the front. Tamara is continually thinking of new ideas for the dress; after she sent me these samples she decided to add a layer of gold mesh to the underside of the lace to add substance and depth to the color. It looks stunning, and the combined fabric still has a nice classical drape to it. The mesh will also peek out from under the ribbon for a tiny ruffled effect.

Click for a better look at the petticoat fabricThe first fitting was last Friday. I wore the corset and petticoat while Tamara made adjustments to the petticoat, the bodice of the gown, and sections of the lace overdress. The overdress will be detachable so it can be worn with a different gown, or the gown itself can be worn alone. Given Jane Austen’s own fondness for mixing and matching her accessories to make multiple outfits, this is very appropriate.

The second fitting will be in a couple of weeks. Tamara’s enthusiasm for the project is infectious; I was already very excited to see how the gown will look, and now The Gimlet (!) has agreed to don a waistcoat and cravat for the banquet and ball.

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